Lithuania: Nida to Klaipeda

The Curonian Spit is a 98km long thin, sand and tree covered sand bar on the eastern side of the Baltic Sea. Roughly half of it is in Lithuania and the other half is in Kaliningrad (Russia). Under Lithuanian mythology, the Spit was formed by Neringa while playing on the Lithuanian seashore. During the Russian occupation of Lithuania after WWII, the Spit was a largely restricted area, closed to most, while the Russians enjoyed an ice free port and bay on the Baltic Sea. Today, the Spit is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Access to the Spit is via a ferry out of Klaipeda or via car from Kaliningrad (with expensive tourist visa fees attached). As such, it is a gem of the Baltic with a comparatively small number of tourists when compared to Klaipeda, Palanga, and other Lithuanian seaside resorts. This is an experience to be had while tourism is still fairly small. Yes, towns and villages can be crowded in the summer, the crowds are nothing when compared to other seaside communities.

The Spit, between Klaipeda and Nida offers a number of miles of bike trails. However, some of these trails are sand, making cycling all but impossible. Because of this, I really suggest only one route: Rt 167, the Nidos-Smiltynes road. There is generally light traffic punctuated by heavier traffic when the ferries disembark cars. The roads are good, but shoulders are more or less non-existent. The highest points of the ride are when the road crosses from the lagoon side of the Spit to the sea side. Other than that, climbs and elevation changes are irrelevant. This entire ride is an easy one-day metric century, or a pleasant multi-day ride if you stop at the various sites along the way.

Nida, my personal favorite, is the start of this ride, but you can, of course start in Klaipeda or anyplace in-between. There are pristine beaches on the Baltic, small fishing villages on the lagoon, living and dead dunes, The Witche's Hill in Juodkrante, The heron and cormorant bird sanctuaries, Thomas Mann House/ museum in Nida, Parnidis Dunes (among highest in Europe), Curonian Spit National Park, the Historical Museum of Neringa, and the Smiltyne Dolphinariun. Of course, the villages offer quaint restaurants, incredible smoked fish, world class beer and even some nightlife in Nida.

While the beaches tend to be clothing optional, it's all taken in stride and you just don't want to find yourself on the wrong beach. Men should not walk on the women’s only beach (you will be chastised for that) but women on the men’s only beach tend to be forgiven. No glass on the beach. No camping on the beach or dunes. Beer and alcohol is typically not allowed on the beach, but it is generally overlooked if the containers are not glass. When cycling, you may come across wild boars. Don't approach them and give them a wide berth. They may look cute, but they can be dangerous. Ride single file on the right edge of the road. The "Share the Road" concept is still new to many Lithuanian drivers and staying out of their way is a good idea. Wear bright clothing and be sure to have lights and rear flashers for dusk and night. Tap water in the towns is believed to be OK, but I still drink bottled water. Be sure to buy some of the local smoked fish to eat with your beer. You won't regret it.